CHEF'S TIPS

Ken Frank on Asparagus:

In ancient times asparagus was harvested wild in meadows and marshland every spring. During the reign of Louis the 14th the French perfected the technique of growing it in beds so they could supply the King with his favorite vegetable most of the year.

In the U.S. we always see green asparagus but there are actually three colors: white, green and purple. White asparagus usually comes from Belgium and Germany, purple asparagus is a specialty of Genoa, Italy and green asparagus is grown everywhere.

Fat asparagus should be scraped or peeled before cooking and should never be overcooked. Even before al dente and nouvelle cusine, cooks recognized that over cooked asparagus loses its flavor and becomes watery. The tiny asparagus sometimes called spaghetti do not need to be peeled. I tend to prefer large asparagus to serve cold because they have a sweeter flavor. My favorite dressing is made with mustard and roasted red bell peppers.

Bon Appetit.

Ken Frank on Fresh Fish:

Eating fresh fish is as delicious as it is healthy. In my kitchen we cook fish for the staff at least once a week. A lot of people don't cook fish as often as they should and I have a feeling it's because they're worried how to tell when it's done.

Unlike meat and vegetables, fish doesn't have to cook until it's tender. It just has to cook until it's done. Indeed if you keep cooking it past that it will just overcook and get dry.

I tell people to think of cooking fish like cooking a hard boiled egg. As soon as its firm and opaque it's done. It should be juicy and flake easily. As much as I love sushi I don't like undercooked fish. With the exception of tuna seared rare I like my fish cooked all the way but not a second more.

That's not hard. It just takes practice. Whether you're grilling, broiling or poaching just cook it till it's done. To figure out how long just think about the thickness of an egg. Hard boiled takes 10 minutes. Unless your fillet is really thick it won't take that long.

Bon Appetit.

Ken Frank on Egg Whites:

The key to a perfect angel food cake or soufflé is the egg whites. Some people go to great lengths and almost make a religious ritual of making meringue. Is this really all necessary? Yes and no. Although there are many little things you can do to perfect your meringue the only thing that will prevent whites from beating into foam is if they are contaminated with even the smallest amount of egg yolk. If the meringue is not a vital ingredient in a recipe it's probably a little silly to worry but if you want perfect meringue here are some tips.

	Use a clean, dry bowl and whip. A just cleaned copper bowl will take longer but make a more stable meringue.
	Never overbeat a meringue. A good meringue should be stiff but still smooth and glossy, even though it may be less volume it will hold up better in the end.
	A pinch of cream of tartar will lower the pH and make a more stable meringue.
	If you're adding sugar, use granulated regular sugar a spoonful at a time so it has a chance to dissolve completely.

Bon Appetit.